Blackpoint, Exuma

After five weeks in Georgetown, we weighed anchor on Tuesday, March 23, 2009. We came straight to Georgetown from Fort Lauderdale (with one stop in Nassau to check in), so as we listened to other cruisers talking about the great places in the Exumas that they had visited on their way down to Georgetown, we were very much looking forward to working our way slowing up the cays. Once out of Elizabeth Harbor and through Conch Cay Cut, we sailed northeast in the Sound with light southeast wind and moderate seas.

Our first destination was Cave Cay, a distance of 37 nautical miles. The narrow, deep Cave Cay Cut current was strong, but the light wind became a light breeze and we were at mid high tide, so we left the main up and motored easily through the cut. Once inside the cut and on the Bank side, we could see that the sandy bottom twelve feet below had many two to three foot rocks. With three other boats already anchored and not wanting to anchor on a rock, we took longer than usual to pick a good spot. At the same time, Flight, a Valiant 40, was anchoring close by. While at a Sundowner gathering on Hamburger Beach in Georgetown, we met Jeff on Déjà Vu. He had told us to be on the the lookout for Don and Kathy on Flight as they were on their way down the Exumas. After chatting with them on the VHF, we put Lit’l Lap in the water, picked up Don and Kathy on Flight, and dingied into the narrow entrance to Safe Harbor Marina. The Marina is open though no boats were docked. The owners have installed wind turbines for power and are building rental cottages. The small, nearly round harbor provides protection in bad weather. We hope this newly developed harbor is successful. We ended the evening on Flight, having a Kalik and a good visit with Don and Kathy. They are from Aransas Pass, Texas. Jeff is from Austin, but spends much time in Aransas Pass. So we all have lots in common.

The next morning, the dingy went back on the davits and the motor on the rail. Our next stop was Blackpoint, a slightly less than fifteen mile trip. We sailed in the shallow waters of the Exuma Bank, following the dead-on routes from the Explorer Charts. We put up the sails, but before we got the engine turned off, it died. We had plenty of wind to sail, but a boat engine ‘dying’ on its own causes great concern. About the same time, the chart plotter would 'just' add a waypoint and start following it AND Mr. Auto Pilot would not function. So, I sailed while Larry went below to see what was going on. He found a burst fresh hot water hose that was spewing water on the engine and on boat wiring located close to the engine. He was able to cut off the hose and clamp it. So that was fixed, but we were sure we still had problems. As we approached Blackpoint, we tried to start the engine, and, of course, it didn’t. We made a decision to turn into a small bay just before the point that marks the turn into the main anchorage bay. Since we were under sail only, we thought an empty bay was preferable. After making sure our anchor was secure, we lowered the dingy and went to the main harbor and settlement of Blackpoint. In Lorraine’s café, we unexpectedly met up with our friends Jim and Nancy from Solitaire. So, of course, we joined them and their friends, Jeff and Tessa from Inamorata, for dinner. Lorraine’s prepares delicious native food. Our group’s choices included fresh grilled grouper, conch fritters, and chicken. Dinner was served late, and we had a long ride back to Lapidus on a very dark night. Thankfully, we had turned our anchor light on and had a flash light in our dingy.

Back to our engine –We would try to start the engine the next morning. Then the plan was to follow the trouble shooting Westerbeake guide plus try other ideas we had been given. When Larry pushed the starter button, the engine did start, though it took it much longer than usual. Apparently, all the wiring had to dry. We then moved our boat into the main anchorage, so we could more easily fill our water jugs. The next day, both Jim and Nancy and we moved back to the smaller bay. The forecast called for several days of strong northeast wind. By anchoring as close as possible to the beach, we were much better protected in the small bay.

Mike and Kathy on Sapphire and Jeff and Tessa are anchored here as well, so we’re having a great time getting together for cocktails, snacks, and games. The area has great snorkeling and pretty good spear fishing. From this side, we can easily walk to the Sound and Blackpoint is about a mile. The non-touristy settlement is neat and brightly painted. A modern laundry, three restaurants and grocery are the main businersses.

Internet is available at two of the restaurants. Connectivity is limited and always slow. But, I will post an update as often as I can.