Bahama Magic

The Bahamas are great tablelands of limestone, coral, and sand. More than 700 small islands (cays) and several large islands sit on top of a plateau covered with shallow water and surrounded on all but one side by dark, sapphire blue deep, deep water. The turquoise banks and white sand beaches along with specks of emerald present a brilliant vista that encourages all onlookers to pause often to take in the splendor. Cruisers trek to this paradise year around, but especially November through May.

A tremendous volume of water enters and exit the large areas of shallow water, named the Little Bahama Bank and the Great Bahama Bank, with each tidal current. This flushing action keeps the waters on the Bahama Banks very clear, adding to the beauty of the area. But, with small islands close together, the tidal water enters and exits through fairly narrow channels, (cuts) between two islands. Cruisers traveling these cays often cross from the Banks (shallow water) to the deep water and from the deep water to the Banks. Each cut, or narrow channel, is different and all require the utmost attention. If wind and current oppose each other, crossing the cut is not advised since a Rage may develop with waves breaking across the entire cut.

After we left Nassau, we crossed the Highborne Cut from the Bank to the deep water Exuma Sound. We had some swells and light wind. Larry steered Lapidus straight through the middle of the cut while both of us watched for rocks and coral close to the surface. We left the beautiful turquoise Bank of shallow water for the deep water Sound. Hours later, we turned toward the first waypoint to Georgetown and were soon entering the wide cut into Elizabeth Harbour and more turqouise water.

We're still in Georgetown, along with about 300 boats. Boats leave to cruise other areas, but are replaced by new boats arriving. There are many anchorages, and, currently, we are off Chat and Chill and Volleyball Beach, though we are quite a way out. Activities are held daily on the the main beaches by the anchorages. Volleyball, painting, swimming, yoga, Texas Hold 'Em - these are just some of the choices available to participate in. Cruisers take their dingy to other beaches to swim, chat, eat, or join an activity. Depending on where a boat anchors, the dingy trip to Georgetown is from one to several miles one way. Also, depending on the wind and boat activity around Georgetown, the dingy ride may be a wet one. Georgetown's friendly merchants offer groceries, water (free), fuel, and the coveted wifi. Exuma Market is very well stocked. Homemade bread and pastries from Mom's and fresh local fruits and vegetables available at the Straw Market add to our dining enjoyment.

A boat parade later today will kick off the annual Regatta. In town for the Regatta, Chris Parker, the weather guru, presented a great weather seminar and has been speaking to small groups.

Meeting other cruisers and being a little active is fun, but we're mainly enjoying the beautiful area and 70 degree weather. Finding a stretch of empty, secluded beach for walking and swimming is easy even with so many cruisers in the area. And reading both for the pleasure of freading or needed knowledge (Chris Parker's weather book, for example) rounds a perfect day.

Georgetown, Exuma - Bahamas Baby!

We have been wireless challenged and busy entertaining for the last week.

So, for a little catch-up of what's been happening on Lapidus:
Leaving Fort Lauderdale Thursday, February 12, we headed across the Gulf Stream with our first way point set for Great Issac, a distance of 83 miles. Our crossing was great and we made super time. Instead of taking the usual route through the shallow Great Bahama Bank, we chose to stay in deep water for our overnight trip. Heading east in the New Providence Channel, we had ships on our radar througout the night, often six at a time. Cruise ships, tugs, tankers, motor yachts and the Nassau mail boat kept us company, but many different routes were being followed; we only talked to two big ships and they both altered their course to stay clear of us.

We were soon taveling south passing the Berry Islands on the deep water side. Our last stretch was south east to Nassau; we were in a slip by 11:30 a.m. Friday, February 13. After checking in with customs, walking around town a while, and enjoying a great dinner at the Poop Deck of Yellow Snapper and Bahamian side dishes, we retired early to be rested for our overnighter to Georgetown. We fueled up and left Nassau for the Highborne Cay Cut by crossing the Bank. We went through the cut in shallow water with the sun over our head and the water much less rough than it can be if the tide, current, and wind are in opposition. In the Exuma Sound (more deep water), with the light wind on our nose), we motored the last 80+ miles. By 8:00 a.m., Sunday morning we were at Conch Cay Cut, then followed the way points into Elizabeth Harbour, and dropped the hook. Our trip was close to 300 miles and 52 hours boat traveling that included two overnighters plus one night in a slip.

We immediately went to work cleaning up the cockpit and boat plus getting the dingy, Lit'l Lap, and motor ready to go. We were in Georgetown enjoying a beer at the Peace & Plenty when our daughter Kenya and friends Sherry and Pam arrived in a taxi from the airport around 3:30.
We made it!

We spent the next week enjoying this beautiful island surrounded by gorgeous turquoise water and enjoying our great times together. Kenya and the girls flew home Saturday and we miss them already.

We have pics and much to talk about. We have to come to town to get on the internet -at least for now. More to come.

Ft. Lauderdale

We left Vero Beach January 24th and snuggled into a slip in Ft. Lauderdale late Wednesday afternoon, January 25th. Vero Beach has no inlet to the ocean, so we followed the Intracoastal Waterway south to the Ft. Pierce inlet, just a reverse of our trip north on the ICW to Vero Beach a week earlier. The latest forecast predicted 20+ knots, but the ICW was OK. After a couple of hours, we turned west off the ICW and soon were through Ft. Pierce and entering the inlet out to the ocean. There, as quickly as we committed to going out the inlet, we faced new circumstances. We could see that the waves were high and the water was rough, but still did not expect what was happening. The bow would rise up high out of the water, then slam back on the water with the bow heading into the water and we had quite a ride. We thought about turning back, but that didn't seem like a good prospect, so we just kept going. We could see the ocean and could tell it was not as rough as the inlet. We just keep moving, and once we got out of the inlet, the gusty wind and whitecaps actually looked good. As we talked through what had happened, we realized that the east wind was meeting the tide going out and causing a nasty inlet.

The wind was becoming south east, and thus, pretty much on our nose, so our progress was not great. Soon, even our slow progress stopped. Around midnight, about the time that we passed the Lake Worth inlet, we were slowed to about one knot. Again, we thought, "What is going on?" We were less than three miles off shore and on the edge of the Gulf Stream, but this powerful current included a weather induced Atlantic rip-tide (didn't figure that out right a way!). We tried both heading further out to sea and closer to land; we could pick up a knot, but were being blown too far off course. This went on for a few hours, so we decided that at dawn we would turn around and go in the Lake Worth inlet. As soon as we turned around, we picked up speed and were soon traveling 11 knots --yup, that's how fast that current was moving. We were only about four miles from the inlet and were there so quickly. Several ships were anchored outside of the inlet; we did not want to have to wait on all of them to go in during daylight. We were lucky (finally). It wasn't quite yet light, one ship started into the inlet, and we followed it. Before long, we were back on the ICW and glad to be there for the rest of our trip to Ft. Lauderdale.

Going south from Lake Worth, much of the the ICW becomes a narrow land cut that is lined with houses, hotels, and condos on both sides. The views are views and landscapes are quite varied, but all beautiful. For the next 41 miles, we had 21 restricted bridges to go through! Most open on the hour and half-hour, while some open on the quarter and three-quarter hour. Two miles to travel before a bridge opens in 30 minutes means adjusting your speed so you don't arrive too early; four miles to travel in 30 minutes means pushing your engine for a bit so you don't have to wait another 30 minutes. We were able to get a good flow going; a couple of times the bridge tenders knew we were coming and kept the bridge open just a little longer.

By 4:30 we were in a slip Bahia Mar marina. We are, like many other cruisers, awaiting a weather window to cross the Gulf Stream and spend a few months in the Bahamas.

St. Augustine to Vero Beach, FL

Our beloved staysail in the trash in Beaufort, NC. We cut off several pieces large enough for tote bags.






Leaving Beaufort, NC, January 11, 2009.




Founded in 1564, St. Augustine is America's oldest permanently settled European City. It is a charming and quaint city with grand architecture serving as tributes to past explorers and entrepreneurs. The founder, Ponce de Leon, was sure he had discovered the Fountain of Youth; with a visit to St. Augustine, you too can sip water from this famous fountain.


Braving the unusual cold wind, we shopped, dined, and appreciated the varied architecture. We enjoyed dinner at the Habana Village Cuban Restaurant. We opted for Lechon Asado, meltingly tender roast pork marinated in lemon and garlic. Luis Mario and his Latin jazz added to the lovely evening. Had we not still been tired from our three-day passage, we would have joined others on the dance floor.

After such a great dinner, we retired early with plans for leaving for Vero Beach Sunday morning. Bundled up in the cold morning air, we left the marina around 8:30 headed for the 5-8 foot swells in the ocean. Just as forecast, the waves soon subsided and we were on a comfortable passage.

By afternoon, we shed layers of clothes and relished being in a light shirt and pants plus we rolled up the 'glass' to enjoy the typical Florida climate. Sailing about three miles off shore, we were able to see land and buildings -coastal cruising is great. Hope we can do more of it. Another beautiful sunset to enjoy! The north wind was light, so we motor sailed.

Soon after sunset, as we sailed further offshore to go around Cape Canaveral, we again donned as many layers as we could. We found out a rocket was to be launched that night. Around 8:00 p.m. the Cape Canaveral watch officer hailed a vessel 35 miles south east of us. The vessel was too close to the area from which a rocket was to be launched before midnight; the watch office gave him a course to follow that would put him out of the area. He also said the large rocket should be sighted from as far away as Miami on such a clear night. We certainly wanted to see the launch. At midnight, Channel 16 announced that the rocket would launch in one minute. Viewing the rocket launch from out boat was amazing. The rocket seemed to go right over our boat. Pretty Cool!

The light wind changed to S-SW so we were still motor sailing. Sunday morning, around 8:30, we put down the main sail and made our way though the Ft. Pierce inlet and onto the ICW. Fort Pierce is about 14 miles south of Vero Beach, which is on the ICW; therefore, we had to go back north on the ICW. Another inlet, Sebastian, is closer to Vero Beach, but mariners are cautioned about its "Monster Hole" and strong current. Fort Pierce looks very inviting; the day was warming quickly and anglers and boaters seemed to be everywhere.

We had a short delay in being assigned a slip in Vero Beach Municipal Marina (busy place). As soon as we were safely in a slip, plugged in, and finished with paperwork, we walked a short distance to a great little waterfront restaurant under the bridge, the Riverside Cafe. We even finished our first 'coldie' before Happy Hour began at 4. After steamed mussels, conch fritters, spinach salad, and tuna sandwich, we waddled back to our boat. We chose sleeping over catching the sunset.

After a good night's sleep, we're ready to begin a few boat projects and to have a long visit with our friends: Nancy and Jim on S/V Solitaire and Di and Jay on S/V Far Niente. Their boats are on a mooring ball in this marina. Both couples now own places here in Vero Beach.

We'll also be making plans to cross the Gulf Stream and visit the Bahamas!

P.S. Forecast for this area for tomorrow: the worst arctic cold front in five years.
Gads! Cold weather has followed us since we left Deltaville!
Luckily, here in beautiful Florida, it shall quickly pass.

January 15 - Successful Passage to N Florida

We are now in a slip at St. Augustine Municipal Marina. We were close to the inlet before daylight, but waited until sunrise to go in. We also waited for an opening of the Bascule Bridge, then stopped at the Marina diesel docks to fill up before pulling into a slip. For the approximately 390 mile trip, we had a variety of weather. Rain, gusty wind, and rock and roll seas started Monday afternoon and continued through most of Tuesday. Part of that time, we made great progress, while at other times, going was slow.

We were looking forward to Wednesday with a forecast of sun and N/NW 10-15 knots; that forecast was perfect. The dolphins enjoyed the day as well, swimming and playing and staying with us for quite a while The sunset was beautiful and was followed by so many stars and later a big moon kept us company. It did not, however, keep us warm. We were not ready for how cold the nights were, regardless if the day had been rainy and cloudy or sunny. As the trip progressed, we had three or four layers of coats, sweatshirts, leggings, and/or pants under our foul-weather gear. We had our enclosure zipped, or the air would have been even colder. We mostly stayed in the cockpit, sleeping (or something like it) or resting when not behind the helm, checking the horizon, chart plotter, and radar. Since we don't have much off-shore experience, our adrenaline remained pretty high and we just didn't sleep much. Larry is grabbing a few Z's, but I'm still a little hyped. That actually might be from the five cups of coffee I had this morning with out delicious omlets at Athena's. Bedtime will come early this evening.

Both of the boats that started with us in Beaufort stopped in Charleston. We knew good weather was coming Wednesday and going into Charleston after dark did not appeal to us, so we continued, as both S/V Slocum and S/V Argonauta plan to do later.

We feel great about our passage. Our 'Real Shake Down Cruise' crossing the Gulf Stream and back was not scary, but it was not pleasant. This trip had a little weather, but was a great experience, plus we had no boat issues and no seasickness. Also, we just are not fans of the Intracoastal Waterway. The short days make it hard to arrive to the next destination on the waterway before dark, the scenery is undoubtedly much better in the fall and spring, we have a 6' draft and the shallow waterway is less than that in so many places, and the wind blows the water out of the Sounds, making more shallow places. We traveled very few days with no wind. Plus, we motored on the ICW; sailing is mostly not a good option.

We'll be here two or three days. Vero Beach is our next stop.

Leaving Beaufort - January 12, 2009

Beaufort offers much to transients; in fact, quite a few boats winter over here. We've met great people, but we're ready to move on. We have a new batten in our main, a new starter battery, made several other repairs, and adjusted/changed lines. We're ready to go, but we'll be without our new staysail until Florida.

We are buddy boating with Bryn and Scott on Arganauta and Tom on Slocum. Tom will stop in Charleston; we might, but if the weather stays with us and all goes well, we'll keep sailing south. Two boats left yesterday, one stopping at Charleston, the other sailing to Key Biscaine.

So, we say goodbye to this busy little seaport town, all our new friends, the porpoises, pelicans, and wild ponies (on an island across from the waterfront) and hello to more southern waters.

The Mighty Gulf Stream

"It's been rough and rocky traveling, but I'm finally standing upright on the ground.
After taking several readings, I'm surprised to find my mind is fairly sound."
-Willie Nelson

The four of us could easily relate to those famous song lines as we pulled back into Beaufort, NC at 8:00 a.m., December 31, after 63 hours and 350 miles.

Though the details are a little difficult to sort, here's the tale from our Real Shakedown Cruise:

We set sail on Sunday, December 29, at 3:30 with a good weather forecast (light wind!) and a course for the Grand Bahamas. We sailed southeast, knowing the Gulf Stream would take us north, then we would sail south to the Bahamas. Sunset on our first day was lovely with comfortable seas.

The wind picked up as we entered the Gulf Stream, which pushed us along, adding to our speed. We sailed with a reefed main and a staysail. The sky was clear and with countless stars, it resembled a giant pincushion that could not hold another pin.

Soon, seasickess came aboard. In different degrees, we were all affected. The high winds, rough seas, and waves crashing us from all sides contributed to the Mal de Mer. I was fine until I went below Monday morning to make coffee -which no one touched. I had to hold the kettle on the stove and then hold on to the French Press, so I was below too long and joined Larry, Jim, and Patrick in those uneasy, nauseous feelings.

After dark, with gusts up to 39 knots and rough seas, we furled the staysail. It fouled and we could not make enough wraps to get it all in. With a jackline attached, Larry went up on deck to try to put a wrap on the loose sail, but it was too high up the furler. The wind and rough seas eliminated using the bosun's chair, so we could only hope the staysail would be OK. When we were far enough across the Gulf Stream, we turned south.

The saga continues. Electrical problems were the next main event. Late, Monday the beloved auto pilot stopped functioning. We took shifts hand steering, dealing with heavy weather helm, due to the Gulf Stream and high wind. Every hour or so, another instrument would go out. We ran the genset for a while, but it did not seem to be charging the batteries enough to keep us from losing instruments. We turned off all the instruments except the running and steaming lights and started the engine. With a torn staysail that was starting to shred and unable to troubleshoot our electrical problems, we decided Tuesday morning to return to the coast where we were sure we could get the necessary repairs.

The wind stayed with us as we crossed the Gulf Stream going east and rain joined us. We were about the same distance from Wilmington as Beaufort, but with the wind and current, we would make Beaufort a lot faster. With the engine running constantly, the batteries did charge by mid-morning Tuesday and we turned the instruments back on. The wind and the Gulf Stream helped as have a fast trip and we arrived in Beaufort at 8:00 a.m. Wednesday morning.

We do have some minor electrical issues, but we now know, that in addition to our wind generator and solar panels (which didn't have enough sun to be of much help), we have to run our engine more often to ensure our batteries stay charged.

We also need a new starter battery and ignition switch. Last, our Reverse Cycle Air and Heat panel flashes a Lo Power message that indicates we have lost gas in the system. That too, shall be addressed.

We're talking to a sail maker here in Beaufort that may have a used sail that will fit. We're also talking to Mariner Sails in Dallas. Either way, the tell-tales are in good shape and we plan on them being on our next sail.

Our friends, Bryn and Scott, left two days before we did for the same destination. When we returned to Beaufort, they were back here too. They had no mechanical or sail issues, but the Gulf Stream just beat them up and did not want them to cross. Their ocean going 35' Young Sun kept them safe, but they do have to self steer, which is exhausting. We were all glad to see each other.

A captain and crew in a catamaran were preparing to leave soon after we left, with a course to Bimini and then St. Martin. They probably flew across, but it couldn't have been comfortable.

I've read that crossing the Gulf Stream takes both strategy and luck. We could have used a bit more of both, but we will surely benefit from the experieces we've had on our Read Shakedown Cruise. Our salty and cranky dockmaster insists that he would rather cross the Gulf Stream here than in Florida. But, for us, we'll be heading down the coast as soon as we have everything ready to go and a decent weather window. The weather forecasts may not be right-on for coastal weather, but they are certainly superior to the ocean forecasts.

From Beaufort, NC, Happy New Year.